93 Points Vinous
The 2021 Chablis Vaillons Premier Cru, which comes from around 12 parcels, 3.5 hectars, two-thirds within the "Vaillons" climates in the heart of the appellation. This has a slightly yeasty nose at the moment, not a million miles away from the Montmains in style. The palate is slightly different with a little more frisson and tension, just a touch more length on the finish. This should develop nicely in bottle.
93 Points Decanter
Didier Seguier says that this is from a sunny terroir but in a cold vintage. It is certainly very attractive with the acidity balancing, and complimenting, the generosity of the fruit. White flowers and a touch of pear/white peach on the palate. Very precise and nice mineral undertow. A really fine example, mostly from the Vaillon sector within the wider Vaillon Premier Cru.
93 Points Jasper Morris
Mostly in the heart so an early site. Pale lemon and lime, with a very elegant nose that speaks of dainty little stones. Not at all blockbuster. Quite concentrated with a firm, stony feel at the back, then some white fruit to finish. Fills out very well at the back, superior to Montmains today. Drink from 2025-2030.
91 Points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2021 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons reveals a perfumed bouquet of white flowers, citrus zest, crisp orchard fruit and shells, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and seamless palate that's bright and charming, with a pure, elegant profile. This has turned out beautifully. The 2020 vintage marked the first year of official organic conversion for 78-hectare Domaine William Fèvre, though it's actually the 15th year the estate has been practicing organic, so the team took the challenges of the 2021 vintage in their stride. When I asked Didier Séguier how he managed to farm such a large estate this way, when so many smaller producers balk at the challenge, he explained that part of the secret has been fully engaging the Fèvre team: everyone is trained to spot signs of mildew and disease and share them on a team WhatsApp group; there are even prizes for the most vigilant employees. The approach certainly seems to have paid off in 2021, in any case, delivering wines with an old-school aesthetic but contemporary precision and charm; and the fact that they are bottled under Diam means that their gracious evolution in the cellar is assured. While the 2021s can't quite match the sheer concentration and intensity of 2019 and 2020, their classical profiles and clear differentiation by site will delight Chablis purists.
